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Showing posts with label NightTips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label NightTips. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 3, 2013

Night Photography Instruction: workshops, events, and books

The following is a list of night photographers who offer workshops, events, instruction, books, and tutoring on night photography. Please contact the editor (Royce Bair - at my email address) if you have information for this list:

Mike Pach
    Website • Email • Telephone: 719-260-6637
    Paint Mines Night Photography Workshops near Calhan, Colorado
    
Paint Mines Interpretive Park

Robert Arn
    WebsiteContact
    eBook: Photography At Night: An Introduction To Astrophotography on a Budget
    PDF Downloads: Free Tutorials and Presentations

From "Inexpensive Astrophotography for the Beginner" ~ a free tutorial by © Robert Arn

Royce Bair (Editor of this blog)
    WebsiteEmail • Telephone: 801-558-2701
    Workshops & free events: NightScape Photography meetup schedule

Royce's "NightScapes" Video demo ~ © Royce Bair

Alister Benn
    Website (on Google+)
    eBook: "Seeing the Unseen" - How to Photograph Landscapes at Night

"Solid Air" (used on his eBook cover, "Seeing the Unseen") ~ © Alister Benn

Mike Berenson
    WebsiteEmail • Telephone: 888-460-8880
    Night Photography Workshops: Colorado, Utah, & Arizona
    Night Photography Blog: "How To" Articles & Tutorials, Product Reviews & more

Lake Irene's Milky Way Mirror

Brad Goldpaint
    WebsiteContact
    Workshops: 2013 schedule for on location workshops
    Private Workshops and small groups
    Online Workshops via Google+ video chat

"Allure of Worlds" ~ © Brad Goldpaint

Phil Hart
    eBook REVIEW: "Shooting Stars" - How to Photograph the Stars & the moon



David Kingham
    WebsiteContact • Telephone: 970-372-0752
    Workshops: 2013 schedule for on location workshops

"Cupid Mountain Milky Way" ~ © David Kingham

Dave Morrow
    Website
    Online Tutorial: Star Photography Basics (Free)
    Video Tutorials: Star Photography Post Processing
    Lightroom Presets: Under the Stars Lightroom 4 Presets

"Shoot Me to the Stars" ~ Mt. Rainier from Sunrise Point ~ © Dave Morrow

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Wednesday, October 16, 2013

TOTW: Theatrical Gels or Filters for Night Photography

Starry night over historic, Ward Charcoal Ovens near Ely, Nevada ~ © Royce Bair (click image to enlarge)
Our Tool(s) of the Week (TOTW) are the gels or filters used for color lighting effects in theatrical stage productions. In the above photo, the ovens were lit on the outside by a single Coleman-type camp lantern placed 210 feet (64 m) to the right of these 136-year old stone structures. Filtered, LED lights* were also placed in each of the six ovens to simulate a functioning, 1876 oven. (Photographed with a Canon 5D Mk3 • EF24mm f/1.4L II • f/2.8 • 13 seconds • ISO 8000.)

The filters over the LED lights were cut from a single, 20" x 24" sheet of Rosco Roscolux Gallo Gold. A Rosco Lux Small Swatchbook can help you choose the colors you want to use for your next lighting project.

*I used an Eveready LED Floating Lantern in each of the ovens. I laid each lantern on the ground, in the middle of the oven, and pointed its beam onto the roof and left side of the oven—filling the inside with reflected light. The filters placed lay over each lantern's large, flood-lamp type reflector.

More information on the Ward Charcoal Ovens can be found on my Flickr page.

Nat'l Geo Publication:  [November 18, 2013 Updated] This photo was published again as their "Photo of the Day". You can also download a 1600x1200 wallpaper from its "Travel 365" publication.

Thank you for helping to make this photo on National Geographic's "Daily Dozen" the most voted for image for October 16th.

F.Y.I. My photo was one of 12 chosen by the Nat'l Geo editors. From these 12 images, those receiving the most votes are considered for possible publication in the future issues of their magazine. (Kind of reminds you of "American Idol" competition, doesn't it!) Two days later, another National Geographic editor emailed to let me know that the same image had been picked up for publication and licensing (with pay) in their "Travel 365" project! Although this is not the first time I've been published in Nat'l Geo, it's a cool channel that allows anyone a shot at fame.

Contributing to National Geographic: Five days a week, National Geographic editors choose 12 images to be showcased on their "Daily Dozen". Competition is keen. Currently, over 8,000 images are submitted each day. Scroll down to the bottom of this page to see where you can upload your own photos. Here are their guidelines. Images appearing on the Daily Dozen may also lead to a feature elsewhere on National Geographic (with licensing and compensation).

Royce Bair is the editor of this blog and the photographer of the above image. Here is my gallery of NightScape images. My schedule of workshops, tutorials, and other events is available here.


Advertisement: Hot Weekly Photography Deals - Amazing discounts (updated twice a week).
Royce's 2014 Workshop, Lecture & Video Conference Schedule: NightScapeEvents.com
Featured Post: Shooting Stars eBook Review — How to Photograph the Stars and the Moon

Monday, July 22, 2013

Bodie Church Star Trails by Jeff Sullivan

"Bodie Church Star Trails" ~ © Jeff Sullivan (click to enlarge)
Our Photo of the Week (POTW) was taken by Jeff Sullivan at his last night photography workshop in the ghost town of Bodie, California. Jeff used a Canon 5D Mark III and the Canon 14mm f/2.8 L lens (30 seconds @ f/2.8. ISO 6400) to take a series of images that were "stacked" together. You can follow how he processed this image on The Landscape Photography Show (Episode 14) YouTube Video. (Jeff has three more night photography dates this year at Bodie.)

Personal History: Jeff was born in Massachussetts and lived 6 miles from Henry David Thoreau's Walden Pond. He developed a deep appreciation for nature exploring nearby woods and waterways, and grew up hiking in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, and snorkeling the New England coast from Cape Cod to Maine. Upon moving to California in the 1970s Jeff was walking in the shadow of the Range of Light, in the footsteps of John Muir and Ansel Adams. He took up backpacking and 35mm photography in 1974.

Currently, Jeff is a landscape and nature photographer in Galen Rowell's beloved Eastern Sierra. He leads landscape photography workshops in some of the planet's most exotic landscapes. Jeff is also currently researching and writing a guidebook to California's most stunning landscape photography locations, to be published in early 2012 in Laurent Martres' excellent PhotoTripUSA series.

More of Jeff Sullivan's photography can be found on his website, 500px, and Flickr sites.

Friday, July 19, 2013

Chapel of The Transfiguration - Grand Teton N.P.

© George Manlove • Canon 6D • Canon 16-35mm f/2.8 @ 33mm • f/2.8, 15 sec, ISO 800 (click to enlarge)
Last week I conducted a NightScape workshop in Grand Teton National Park, and on our last night we light painted the log "Chapel of The Transfiguration" in Grand Teton National Park, that was built in 1925. Normally, I set up all the lights, but this time I wanted everyone to get involved and give their input. It took longer, but it was more fun and a better learning experience for everyone.

3 Interpretations: We changed the lighting multiple times during the two hours we were there. Some chose to use only the stationary lights that I set up, Others wanted only hand-held, moving spotlights and lanterns placed inside the chapel, and others wanted a combination of all those things. As the evening progressed, exposures for the sky increased and exposures for the artificial lights decreased in order to maintain a proper balance. We started during the end of the "Blue Hour" and ended well past the astronomical twilight. Here are interpretations from three of the workshop participants.

George Manlove lived in Montana for most of his life and relocated to Park City, Utah a few years ago. As an early adopter, George loves technology and was fortunate to work with Apple during the early Steve Jobs period. Thereafter, he was an entrepreneur in the consumer electronics industry and a pioneer in e-commerce online personal computer, audio/video electronics sales in the late 1990’s. "Photography has always been a part of his adult life," says George. "With the advances in technology, digital imaging is very sophisticated, thereby creating exciting entrepreneurial opportunities. I hope to advance my photographic skills to capture unique professional images for the commercial marketplace."

© Nicole Fernley • Nikon D600 • Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 • f/4.5, 15 sec, ISO 6400 (click to enlarge)
Nicole Fernley is an amateur photographer intrigued by the night sky. She started learning photography on her dad's old Minolta 35mm (circa 1970) with manual light meter and focus. "The first time I took it to a photography workshop in the 1990s, I was laughed out of the class by the instructor because it was so old," said Nicole! She grew up on the Idaho side of the Tetons but rarely spent time on the more popular Wyoming side. "I was thrilled to attend Royce's workshop in Grand Teton National Park—I learned some solid skills and became acquainted with the landscape of a national treasure."

© Jean Thomas • Canon 5D Mark II • Canon 16-35mm f/2.8 @ 30mm • f/2.8, 15 sec, ISO 800 (click to enlarge)
Jean Thomas is a passionate amateur photographer who is always looking for that next sunrise or sunset, and always following the light.  This passion has taken her to many wonderful locations within our beautiful country and park system.  The workshop fulfilled a dream to photograph the Milky Way in the Grand Tetons. "I feel fortunate to have come home with so many amazing images," says Jean.

LED Light Panel
Lighting Equipment Used. Calumet Pro Series Stackable LED Light Panel: This Calumet LED Light Panel is a compact (5 x 1.8 x 3") little powerhouse that has become one of my favorite units for lighting painting and people. It uses 5 AA batteries and runs for hours. It's 96 LEDs produce 800 Lux of 5600ºK light at 1 meter. What I really appreciate is the variable dimmer control that allows stepless brightness output. I often use this a stationary key or fill light, mounted on a tripod or balanced against a rock, and I can set just the exact intensity I want (as I did with this chapel). It also comes with two magnetic filter plates that snap onto the front of the unit. One is a translucent white diffusion filter and the other is a 3200ºK daylight-to-tungsten warming filter. I find myself using both almost 100% of the time. Although the units are stackable, so that you can attach multiple units together (2, 3, 4, 6 or 9 units for one huge light source), I keep one unit in my camera bag at all times. NOTE: There are other brands of this light panel design, some much more expensive, and some very cheaply made. The original, Litepanels, runs about $400 for this design. The Calumet is $199. However, the best value out there is the Vidpro Z-96K for $169, which I think is the exact same unit as the Calumet, but it includes two accessories that Calumet charges $40 extra for: a 7.2V Li-ion battery and charger—which will run the unit for up to 5 hours! The Li-ion battery attaches to the back of the unit, and can be used instead of the five AA batteries that go inside of the unit.

GE Chromalit lantern
GE Chromalit 3D Super Bright White Led Technology. I used two of these Coleman-lantern-style LED lights that I placed inside the chapel to light the interior and the stained glass windows. I'm constantly finding new light painting uses for this lantern because it provides 360º of coverage. It has a yellow filter over the light source, so it's warmer than most LEDs, but I still find it a bit cool. It produces a powerful 260 lumens of light, which can be dimmed down with a low setting. The Chromalit 3D will run for 200 hours on low or 100 hours on high using 8 D batteries, but it will also run 100 hours or 50 hours respectively using just 4 D batteries, which is what I do to keep down the weight. NOTE: I originally bought mine at Costco for $20. General Electric is now producing a smaller, cheaper, and less powerful unit; however the original Chromalit is still available on Amazon and eBay for $25-$30.

Dual Xenon
Brinkmann MaxFire Dual Xenon Spotlight: This compact Brinkmann Dual Xenon Spotlight packs a lot of good color-corrected light. Two of our workshop participants had these units with them, and we used both (one photographer painting on one side of the chapel, and another photographer painting on the other)! The rechargeable unit has the option of using one or two beams for adjustable brightness—we had plenty of light with just the one xenon beam, and we often lighted the chapel for only about five seconds of the average 15-seconds time exposure.

Coast HP17 Flashlight: This 615 lumens focusable LED flashlight was use to highlight the chapel's cross in Jean Thomas' photo, but I could have easily used my less powerful HP14 (339 lumens) flashlight. Both flashlights  (and two others) are reviewed on this Flashlights for Light Painting page.

Vagabond Mini Lithium
Vagabond Portable Power Supply System: The Vagabond Mini Lithium is an on-location power supply that I often use to  to power incandescent lights and large studio strobes. In this case, I used it to power the 150-watt quartz halogen modeling lamp of an AlienBees D1600 Flash unit (variable dimmer brought the output down in this case to about 60 watts). This constant light output is often used on a light stand as a stationary light source in my light painting. It provides a repeatable light source for group 'NightScape' shots, or where I need an un-manned light. The Vagabond is also used to power the same strobe heads when I need a lot of flash power for big landscape light painting.

Special thanks to C.Y. Roby, who also helped on the light painting by manning one of the spotlights; and to Mike R. Jackson, a local professional photographer, who suggested I add the chapel to my workshop schedule.

Featured Post: Shooting Stars eBook Review — How to Photograph the Stars and the Moon

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Night Focusing the Rokinon 14mm Lens

MilkyWay over String Lake, taken with the Rokinon 14mm lens ~ © Royce Bair
Many have purchased the Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 lens for starry night photography, at my recommendation, and then have written to me about their difficultly in focusing this lens for night photography.

Focus Frustrations and Fix: I must admit, that the first time I tried to focus this manual lens I was a bit bewildered. It seemed to stay in focus no matter what I did! This is due to the incredible depth of field of this 114º angle lens, even wide open. After considerable tests in the daylight and field testing at night, I can make the following recommendations: Don't focus on the infinity mark (some are even confused as to what position the infinity mark is located on the lens barrel).

Left: This is NOT the infinity position. Right: This is the infinity position.
HOWEVER, I recommend the following focus position below:
This is the focus position I recommend when shooting 'NightScapes':
Shoot at f/2.8, and set your focus halfway between the 10-feet mark and the infinity mark.
Hyperfocal Distance correction: Some hyperfocal charts will recommend focusing on 7-feet (actually, 7.62 feet—saying that everything from 3.81 feet to infinity will now be in focus). I find that I get better infinity sharpness at my focus position, and I still get good depth of field in to about 10 feet. I think this is because most hyperfocal DOF charts are based on the sharpness quality of an 8x10 inch print, whereas I want 16x20 and even 30x40 quality. (Quoting the Cambridge in Colour website about hyperfocal distances: "... it's often helpful to use a more rigorous requirement for 'acceptably sharp,' or to focus slightly further and improve background sharpness.")

Best Ultra-Wide Lenses for Starry Night Photography: The Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 lens has incredible coma correction and quality for a lens of it's price (about $350). It surpasses the coma aberration correction (even wide open) of most lenses in its ultra wide-angle category. I find it has about 1.5 stops of light fall-off in the corners (vignetting), which is easily corrected in the Adobe Raw Converter (via Photoshop or Lightroom). It is also a little soft in the edges, unless you stop down to about f5.6 or smaller; however, I don't recommend doing that if you're using the lens for high-ISO night photography—just keep this lens wide open, and place important areas away from the edges or corners of your composition. When doing daylight landscape photography, I found this lens performed optimally at f/11, with the focus set at 7-feet (f/16 was also very good, but at f/22, I began to notice a little bit of diffraction).  If you're a Nikon user (and can afford to shell out about $2,000), the only other lens I'd recommend in this category is the Nikkor 14-24mm f/2.8 lens. This lens is well-corrected in every area, and is sharper than most prime lenses. It is a little sharper than the Rokinon, especially in the corners. Some Canon users like it so much, they even have the Nikon mount adapted to fit their EOS bodies!

Full-resolution crop of the top photo. Enlarge or download this image to see for yourself the quality of the
Rokinon 14mm when used wide open at f/2.8—just keep in mind that you're also seeing the coarseness of an
ISO 6400 image that has had some noise reduction in the ARC software (which tends to soften shadow detail).



Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Recognizing the Milky Way in a Light-Polluted Sky

Milky Way rising over Silver Lake near Brighton, Utah ~ © Royce Bair (click to enlarge).
Reddish glow on the left is light pollution from Park City, and on the right is from Heber City.
Last Friday, I participated in an evening photowalk with about 100 local photographers. With the help of a lecture I gave a few days before, I guided many on their first ever photographs of a starry night sky. For several, it was a dream-fulfilled to see and photograph their first Milky Way.

People from big cities throughout the world often write and tell me that they'd love to see and photograph the Milky Way, but it is too light-polluted in their region. For the most part, that's true. However, in almost any area of the world, you can still see the Milky Way if you're willing to drive a few miles and train your eyes to see the shape and features of our galaxy—viewed from the perspective of our planet.

The above photo was taken only 11 miles from the edge of Salt Lake City, and we are still in a 'orange' zone according to Dark Sky Finder's map of the area. Even after the Milky Way appeared at 11:00 PM, in the region that I had predicted, many still could not see it until I photographed it and showed it to them on my camera's LCD monitor:

Even this raw, unprocessed view is 4X brighter than the naked eye view, because of the
light-gathering power of a 20-seconds time exposure, a fast lens, and a high ISO.
It's not hard to recognize the Milky Way in the top, post-processed photo, but it takes some education, experience, and practice to recognize the features of our galaxy, especially in a light-polluted sky, where the contrast and colors of the stars are muted by stray, artificial light.

More light-gathering: The top photo is a double-exposure of the middle image and this 3X exposure to increase the detail in the landscape and the reflection in the lake water:

A 60-seconds exposure washes out the sky and blurs the stars, but adds detail to the landscape. Adding the post-processed sky (mainly contrast adjustments in Photoshop's 'Curves') from the middle image produces the final photo (top).

Friday, May 31, 2013

My '450' Rule to Stop Star Trailing

An 80-minutes star trail exposure vs. a 20-seconds exposure of the Grand Tetons ~ © Royce Bair
Longer exposures cause the stars to "trail"
Stars as Points of Light: My "NightScape" style of star photography endeavors to keep stars as points of light, rather than as star trails; and I also include a landscape feature in the photo. These two requirements make it necessary to keep my exposure times at 30 seconds or less—often much less. (I should mention that I also like to do star trail exposures, too :)

Equatorial Mounts: When astro-photographers take time exposures of just the stars, they use an equatorial mount and a tracking mechanism that keeps the stars in sync with the earth's rotation. Using this system, exposures can be extremely long without blurring the stars or causing them to "trail". If any of the earth's landscape is included in the photo, it is the landscape that would now become blurred during the exposure.

Sharp stars AND landscapes: Because astro-landscape or "NightScape" photos require both the stars and the earth to remain sharp during the time exposure, the length of the exposure must be short enough so that the stars do not appear to rotate or trail due to the earth's rotation.

The math to make it happen: Astronomers know that a normal lens views a smaller area of the sky than a wide angle lens, and a telephoto lens views an even smaller area of the sky. The narrower the field of view, the shorter time it takes for the stars to trail across the camera's picture area.

For this reason, lenses with a longer focal length (more telephoto) will have faster star movement or trailing than lenses with a shorter focal length (more wide angle). Using simple math, amateur astronomers developed a formula called the "600" rule to determine the maximum exposure times for various lenses mounted to 35mm film cameras. The 600 Rule formula says that 600 divided by the focal length of the lens (in millimeters) equals the maximum allowable exposure time in seconds. Example: a camera using a 24mm wide angle lens should use a maximum exposure time of 25 seconds (600 / 24 = 25).

< an 8-sec exposure and a 15-sec shot enlarged to 100% >
8"x10" prints look great using the 600 Rule, but not at 24"x30"
Going from 600 to 450: This old rule or formula is based on the image quality of a typical 8" x 10" enlargement. When images are enlarge to 16" x 20" and larger, more star movement or trailing is apparent, so I've adjusted the rule or formula to a base number of 450 in order to increase the image quality. The same camera using a 24mm wide angle lens should now use a maximum exposure time of 19 seconds (450 / 24 = 18.75).

A simple chart: Both rules or formulas are based on the full-frame 35mm (24x36mm) film format, so the chart below has a column for both full-frame sensor cameras (and their lenses) and a column the smaller APS-C sensor cameras (and their lenses). Users of the four-thirds (4/3) format should use the APS-C column. Instructions: Pick the column that describes your camera system. Find the number of millimeters that is closest to your lens, then find the maximum exposure time in seconds to the right in either the 450 (less star movement) or the 600 column. (To print this chart, select the blue text with your cursor and any instructions you want to include. Copy and paste the text into your favorite word processor. Change the text to a mono-space font, i.e. and "Courier", so the columns will be properly aligned, and print.)

                      "450"     "600"
                      Rule      Rule
   Full-Frm  APS-C*   Maximum   Maximum
   Sensor    Sensor   Exposure  Exposure
   Camera    Camera   Time in   Time in
   Lenses    Lenses   Seconds   Seconds

     8mm      5.3mm     56      75

     9mm      6.0mm     50      67
    10mm      6.7mm     45      60
    11mm      7.3mm     41      55
    12mm      8.0mm     38      50
    13mm      8.7mm     35      46
    14mm      9.3mm     32      43
    15mm     10.0mm     30      40
    16mm     10.7mm     28      37
    17mm     11.3mm     26      35
    18mm     12.0mm     25      33
    19mm     12.7mm     24      32
    20mm     13.3mm     23      30
    21mm     14.0mm     21      29
    22mm     14.7mm     20      27
    23mm     15.3mm     20      26
    24mm     16.0mm     19      25
    25mm     16.7mm     18      24
    26mm     17.3mm     17      23
    28mm     18.7mm     16      21
    30mm     20.0mm     15      20
    32mm     21.3mm     14      19
    35mm     23.3mm     13      17
    40mm     26.7mm     11      15
    45mm     30.0mm     10      13
    50mm     33.3mm      9      12
    55mm     36.7mm      8      11
    60mm     40.0mm      8      10
    65mm     43.3mm      7       9
    70mm     46.7mm      6       9
    80mm     53.3mm      6       7
    90mm     60.0mm      5       7
   100mm     66.7mm      5       6
   120mm     80.0mm      4       5
   135mm     90.0mm      3       4
   150mm    100.0mm      3       4
   175mm    116.7mm      3       3
   200mm    133.3mm      2       3

*Although the Canon APS-C sensor is slightly smaller than the Nikon APS-C sensor (1.6X factor vs. 1.5X factor), I did not feel the difference is significant enough to warrant a 5th column.

Notes: If your ISO is already to the limits, use the 600 column times, or go even a little longer if you have too (ugly noise is worse than having elongated stars). For the least star movement and highest enlargements, use the 450 column. Choose the shutter speed time that best fits your camera. For instance, if you're using a 24mm lens on a full-frame sensor camera, the 450 column says to exposure for 19 seconds. However, the closest setting on you shutter speed dial is 20 seconds. And, if you want even better enlargement quality (and your ISO isn't already max-ed out beyond your tastes), go one shutter speed setting lower to 15 seconds—you'll be surprised at the star movement difference, and the improvement in quality. Use some practical sense, too. For instance, many 15mm wide angle lenses made for a full-frame camera are "fisheye" lenses, with a view angle of 180º. Many 14mm wide angle lenses, made for a full-frame camera, have a view angle of 114º, making their view narrower than a 15mm! The 450 column recommends a maximum exposure time of 32 seconds for the 14mm, whereas the 15mm recommendation is 30 seconds. In reality, because the 14mm has a narrower field of view, an exposure time of 20 to 25 seconds will give much better results.

Normal and telephoto lenses: As you approach the normal and medium telephoto focal lengths, star movement becomes even more apparent. Although the 450 column says I can get by with a 9 second exposure (10 seconds on your shutter speed dial), the sharpness of the stars and planets in the photo below was greatly improved by going to only 5 seconds.

Morning twilight: Venus & Jupiter within the constellation Taurus (50mm f/1.4 lens @ f/3.5 • 5 seconds • ISO 5000)
Featured Post: Shooting Stars eBook Review — How to Photograph the Stars and the Moon


Thursday, May 30, 2013

Gloves for Cold Night Photography Work

Even in late May it can get quite cold when you're at a high elevation on a clear night, with a full moon ~ © Royce Bair

It's surprising how cold and numb your fingers can get while setting up your camera and tripod on evening photography sessions—especially on unseasonably cool nights. Even though it was late May, the high elevation (8700 feet) of this mountain lake and clear skies caused the temperature to drop to 45º F, and I was glad I had on a pair of gloves liners.

Silk glove liners
Glove liners are thin gloves that can be worn inside a regular pair of gloves. They offer extra warmth inside the heavier gloves, but their main function for photographers is to provide a few minutes of protection against the cold while your hands are outside of the heavier gloves. They are thin and flexible, so they usually offer enough dexterity to allow camera operations. For not-so-cold nights, they can even be used as stand alone gloves. I have purchased most of my glove liners through adventure/extreme sports stores, i.e. REI and Kirkham's Outdoor Products (in Salt Lake City, Utah).

Thermasilk liner gloves are the thinnest and lightest weight of the glove liners. Thermasilk is a brand of 100% real silk, one of nature's most perfect insulators. I have used non-branded silk glove liners in my photography work for over 30 years. They don't grip as well as some of the more modern materials but the are very thin, flexible, and offer an amazing amount of warmth for their light weight. (Thermasilk is also available on Amazon.)

Gordini Lavawool
Thermawool liner gloves are a little thicker, heavier, and warmer than silk. Thermawool is a brand of soft, itch-free natural Merino wool that insulates and keeps warm even when wet. (Thermawool is also available on Amazon.)

Gordini Lavawool Stretch Gripper II Glove Liners are one of my favorites. The shell is 93% polyester and 7% wool.  They are not quite as warm as the Thermawool, but they fit and grip better. Although normally wear a large glove size, but their medium fits perfectly and still offers great flexibility. They are my favorite stand-alone glove for short time periods. (Lavawool is also available on Amazon: Small or Medium to X-Large.)

Head Digital Sport Running Gloves w/Sensatec are the thickest of the liner gloves, because they are not a true glove liner. They are really designed to be worn alone, but are thin enough that they can be warn in heavier gloves or mittens as a liner. Their design produces a snug, but stretchy fit. They have a wind-resistant soft shell outer with fleece lining (53% Polyester, 41% Nylon and 6% Spandex). I particularly like their silicone grip dots on the palm and fingers. Sensatec® on the thumb and forefinger make them touch screen compatible, although I had limited success with this feature. The best pricing is at Costco (about $13). However, because this is a seasonal product, you'll often have to purchase it elsewhere during the off-seasons.

On this very cold (below zero) January night, glover liners were a MUST. As soon as camera adjustments were made, I quickly returned my hands back into the larger gloves!
Featured Post: Shooting Stars eBook Review — How to Photograph the Stars and the Moon

Friday, May 24, 2013

Adding Ballast to Stabilize Your Tripod

My tripod stabilized with a heavy bag of rocks during a time-lapse series.
Use the heaviest tripod you can stand to carry: Many wildlife photographers recommend that if a person wants sharp photos when using a long telephoto lens, one should buy the heaviest tripod that he or she can stand to carry into the field. Although nightscape photographers typically use wide angle rather than telephoto lenses to capture the night skies, the need for a stable tripod is still there, especially when multiple exposures are required.

Or, add the extra weight once you're on location: One way to get the stability of a heavy tripod is the add the weight or ballast after you get to your location. Ballast is often defined as the heavy material that is placed in the hold of a ship to enhance stability. In my night photography, this ballast comes in the form of a canvas shopping bag that is partially filled with rocks (gathered on location) and hung from the bottom center of the tripod.

The day or night solution to sharp images: I often use this same technique for my daytime photography. The new light-weight carbon fiber tripods are very sturdy, but I've discovered that even a medium breeze can sometimes shake my camera and blur my images. Adding ballast in the field offers a win-win solution!

In the night scene below I captured the Grand Canyon and the Colorado River bathed by the light of a quarter moon. Six hours later, after the moon had set, I was able to capture the glory of the Milky Way. Because the weighted tripod remain perfectly stable between the two exposures, combining these two images was fairly easy in post production.

Grand Canyon and the Colorado River bathed by moonlight ~ © Royce Bair
6 hours later, with the moon gone, I can now capture the glory of the Milky Way ~ © Royce Bair
In post production, I easily combined the two exposures because of perfect alignment, due to a stable tripod.
Equipment Used: For the above photos, I used the Canon EOS 5D Mark III camera body with a Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 lens. The 5D Mark III provides excellent low-noise control at the high ISOs I need for this type of starry night photography, and the ultra-wide (114º) Rokinon lens provides excellent coma aberration correction. The camera was mounted to a Manfrotto 410 Junior Geared Head, attached to a light-weight Manfrotto 190CXPRO3 3-Section Carbon Fiber Tripod (weighted down with my canvas bag of rocks). You can read about the benefits of using a geared head here.

When I am on unstable soil, i.e. sand, I also take the precaution of placing flat rock supports under my tripod legs so there is less chance of shifting between exposures. (During the night, wind gusts reached over 40 mph, so I was glad that the tripod had been weighted with the bag of rocks!)

Flat rocks under the tripod legs provide added support when on unstable soil, i.e. sand.

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

How to Level Your Camera in the Dark

You're hoping to capture a Milky Way landscape (left), but you'll be lucky to see even this much (right) in the viewfinder!
If you've taken the proper steps to adjust your eyes to the darkness and preserve your night vision, you might be able to see as clearly as the image on the right. Even then, the image through your camera's viewfinder is usually much dimmer.

Staying Level-headed at Night. There are so many simple things that we do in the light of the day that become much more difficult in the darkness of night. The first time I went to photograph a Milky Way landscape, I realized I could not see the horizon in my viewfinder. In fact, there were hardly any reference points I could see through the lens! I had to photograph the scene several times, review it on the LCD monitor, and make small adjustments to the tripod head just to get a general composition that I liked. After all this, I still wasn't sure if the horizon line was really level. When I check the final composition later on my computer monitor, I discovered that I needed to make a 5-degree leveling adjustment that cropped away some of the important areas of the image.

Nikon's "Virtual Horizon"
Electronic Leveling in the Camera: As early as 2008 Nikon began to offer Virtual Horizon on select DSLR models. VH is a feature used to verify that the camera is horizontally or vertically level. It appears that the Nikon D800 has a version of VH that now displays both tilt and roll. (I was unable to determine from Nikon's website which camera models have the Virtual Horizon feature and the newer version which displays two axis leveling.)

Canon was the first camera company to provide internal Dual Axis Electronic Level with the introduction of the Canon EOS 7D in October 2009. Dual Axis provides roll and pitch information within an accuracy of 1-degree. This information can be displayed on the rear LCD monitor or within the viewfinder. Dual Axis is now available on the Canon 5D Mark III and the Canon 1D X. Canon provides Single Axis Electronic Level with the EOS 6D and the EOS 60D.

Vello 2-Axis Bubble Level
External Bubble Levels: Even though both of my Canon cameras have internal electronic leveling, I often find myself using an old-fashioned bubble level attached to my camera's hot shoe when I am doing night photography. Maybe it's my construction background, but I can center a bubble faster than I can switch on the electronic leveling feature and align it in the viewfinder or on the LCD monitor! And for those of you with cameras not having an electronic leveling feature, a hot shoe bubble level is a must when working in the dark. I use the Vello Two-Axis Hot-Shoe Bubble Level. I also have the Manfrotto 337 2-Axis Flash Hot Shoe Double Bubble Level, which I bought at a local camera store when I temporarily misplaced my Vello. I paid more than twice as much for the Manfrotto as the Vello (about $37 vs. $18), and I can't see any difference in quality or accuracy. (Read my final paragraph, "Tripod Head Workflow", for suggestions on how to use this level.)

When shooting a horizontal subject, you attach the bubble level to your hot shoe in the manner.
When shooting in the vertical position, you attach the bubble level in this manner  ~ © Royce Bair
Manfrotto 410 Junior Geared Head
Making Adjustments for Composition with a Geared Head: If you are an occasional nightscape photographer, a standard tripod head will work just fine for you. As I have already mentioned in the beginning, there will be some frustrations in trying to compose your image in the dark because the viewfinder offers almost no feedback. This is why some astro-landscape shooters, like myself, have gone to using geared heads. A geared head not only gives your reference markings, but allows smooth and exact movements to those points.

Pan, Pitch, and Roll: Like an airplane, almost all tripod heads allow you to pan (yaw) left or right, tilt (pitch) up or down, and roll (lean) to the left or right (taking a vertical photograph requires a 90º roll to the left or right). A geared head will allow you to do the same things, but with precision and repeatability. When you make an adjustment with a regular tripod, you are just "shooting in the dark". As soon as you loosen the adjustments for any of your three axes, you have no reference for your movements. With a geared head, you can make an exact adjustment in any of the three axes. If you overshoot or undershoot your mark, you can go back or forward a few degrees.

The head I use is the Manfrotto 410 Junior Geared Head (one of my fellow nightscape photographers, Lincoln Harrison, uses the heftier Manfrotto 405 Pro Digital Geared Head). I also use a ball head (Manfrotto 496RC2 Compact Ball Head) between the camera and the geared head to extend the range of movement when I'm doing vertical shots. My tripod is the Manfrotto 190CXPRO3 3-Section Carbon Fiber Tripod.

Tripod Head Workflow: Whether you're using a regular tripod head or a geared one like mine, 1.) I always strive to null out the head (return any settings to zero, if it has markings) and level it if it has a bubble level. When the camera is attached to the head, its hot shoe bubble level should now read level as well. 2.) I then pan the head and re-check the hot shoe level throughout the pan, making any necessary fine-tune adjustments to the tripod to maintain a level pan (if you are taking a panoramic series of photographs to stitch together, this step is critical for best results). 3.) I then aim the camera in the general direction of nightscape subject and take a photograph (you can speed up these composition test exposures by using a higher ISO). 4.) After reviewing the image on the LCD monitor, I make further head adjustments until I am satisfied with the composition. 5.) I re-check my hot shoe bubble level one last time and make any "roll" level adjustments (if necessary) before making my final exposure.